In the early years of the eighteenth century, during the Regency , in everyday attire completely rejected rigid old fashion dress. But not for long, because back in the 20’s returned to the voluminous dress , probably under the influence of theatrical costumes and fashion England , where he dresses on the rack now called hoop petticoat . In France and the representative dresses ( robe a la francaise ) was based on a broad frame called Panier ( in Poland - the cornea ) .
Despite the discomfort posed wearing that dress with the cornea , gradually expanded to its circumference . From the bell-shaped forms passed in the 30s the straight , the shape of the dome of the circumference length of three cubits French ( in the eighteenth century, one cubit = 118 cm). In the 60’s circuit cornea was so large that it had to be found more convenient to use the system rack . Usually consisted of about three rim baleen , of which the largest was in the middle of the calf, next to the knees , and the shortest around his waist .
At small enough corneas shortened to the knee , stiff skirt with less rim. This short dress variety with the frame gave better system skirt, and greatly facilitated the movement .
In the 70’s Panier took the shape of an oval , obtained by the bending of baleen and sew them on the taffeta skirt with a few rows from the bottom. Convenient variant of the cornea were oval frames półowalne divided into two parts, which are lightweight, comfortable when you sit down and are still allowed to keep a fashionable silhouette. Fashions on the big oval cornea brought to France Marie Antoinette of the Court of Vienna , you can see that the images of Bernardo Belotto - Canaletto from 1759 depicting elements of fashion Austrian court , as well as portraits of other artists , such as Mary Łęczyskiej of 1740, Louis Tocque .
Nor can we be surprised that in this period , a number of satires talking about dresses with Panier as difficult wedding dress not only sit , but also go through the door , take the stairs or getting into the carriage . And so again in the last years of the eighteenth century, the cornea gradually being driven to explore comfortable dress without a brace .
Back in the 50s of the XIX century, much wider and ornate dresses need support. For this purpose, used a wide strips sewn on canvas haircloth rigid bottom. In England, these belts were made of all skirts, under which it was assumed flannel petticoats . In 1856 appeared the first crinoline , constructed of a flexible steel tape , forming a densely braided and covered with a cotton plaid fabric. This steel construction , due to its strength quickly took the place of haircloth , and even took its name - crin . The contemporary crinoline was shaped like a bell and there were modest in size and in the squat big . As well at times in previous centuries , it was said , was criticized and written a lot about crinoline and women in unusual situations created by these miracle.